Change in Bordeaux happens one château at a time, when a forward-thinking winemaker is given the needed tools and support by ownership and a green light to make it happen. Heinz has the ingredients at Lascombes—a deep-pocketed owner with a quality-first vision and a decent slice of prime terroir amid a healthy vineyard base. It might not be long before he joins the ranks of the region’s most consequential winemaker hires of Bordeaux’s current generation.